Thursday, February 11, 2010

Oyo and the stupid thief

Well, I spent more time than expected in Brazzaville, as I was a kind of suspicious of maybe having malaria. So, I wanted to be sure and do a test in a clinic, before heading in the bush. The test was negative, so the following day, I boarded a bus to Oyo.


Oyo
Oyo is the place of the president, here he was born. As a decent president should behave, he looks after his native country and so Oyo has definitely better infrastructure, better streets, schools, administrative buildings and even soon a hospital than other places about the same size (about 10,000 inhabitants). Oyo is also connected by a narrow, but very good tarred road with Brazzaville. Therefore, the coach trip for these 400 kilometers took only 5 hours. In RC, people are very friendly towards strangers, but, nobody thought of me a tourist. Usually, foreigners come here for business.
In East Africa, I was often called mzungu; the equivalent here is mundele (white person). Here, I encountered something a bit bewildering, as lots of children called me Chinoise the french word for Chinese. Well – as in many other african countries, also in RC it is mainly chinese people, who are working in road construction. Local children make quite obviously no difference between foreigners from Asia and Europe, and as I am obviously not black, I must be Chinese. No doubt about this!
In Oyo, I visited the most important things by motorbike: the residence of the president, the huge villas for the big family of the president, the cemetery where the favorite daughter of the president and wife of president Bongo of Gabon is buried, the lodgings for the ministers of the president… Not difficult to find out without even being there, this is the town of the president! And the locals are proud of it.

Oyo
Construction work
Hairdresser, Oyo
In between all these palatial buildings, there is also space for normal citizens. In Oyo, they have a big, well organized market, a harbor for cargo and passenger ships, and a few supermarkets usually run by Lebanese and Mauritanians and all-important: a small chicken barbeque, where half a chicken was sold for only 3 US! Currently, the most important streets around the president palace are a big mess and about to be paved soon, as in mid march, the president will held a big party with many African presidents and all available ministers. Apart from dust and noise due to the road construction, most of the habitants along these roads did not have running water or electricity since weeks, as both was put down because of security reasons. This also affected my hotel, but a bucket shower with water from a nearby river is nothing unusual in Africa, and they also provided candles in the hotel. A problem was the heat at night – 30 degrees centrigrade in the room without a fan is somewhat unpleasantly warm…. Although I am already quite African when it comes to temperatures after more than 8 months traveling here, but, however, 30 degrees is definitely too much. Anything more than 27 degrees for sleeping I still rate as a bit uncomfortable…
Market, Oyo
The original plan was to stay in Oyo only one night, finally, I spent three nights here. The reason was a little bit weird, as I was robbed the first evening – by a young man, which appeared first quite nice and normal. We visited his family and friends, exchanged telephone numbers when we sat together in a small local bar. When I went to the bathroom, I asked him to take care of my backpack. Better not to take a bag in African public toilets… Shortly after he accompanied me back to my hotel, which was very nice as it was already dark, especially; as there was no electricity and the streets were dotted with gigantic holes due to the road construction… The fact, that the camera was missing, I realized only the next morning, when I packed! As I had the telephone number of this guy, I took my miserable french and called. He stated he does have the camera and, moreover, left Oyo this morning for work. I explained in drastic words, that I will finish him in this small village of 10,000 souls, if he does not hand over the camera. First, I went to the police, accompanied by a few hotel employees, some neighbors and other interested people (finally, there is some action in sleepy Oyo), then the military. After that, a lot of people wanted to help and swarmed out in the whole town to tell everyone on the street, whom we search and why… Well, in the early afternoon, the guy got cold feet, and camera was delivered to the hotel by a small boy…

Marietta from Oyo
After that day, I was probably known by at least half of the population of Oyo as the mundele with the camera! In Oyo at least I was not rated any more as Chinese! After all, the delay had many positive sides. First, I got to know Tayssir, a Lebanese and hotel and restaurant owner. As he offered me a special room rate, I moved into is hotel. Moreover, I got to know an absolutely charming local lady, Marietta. We had a lot of fun at the market, went to a tailor, I even tried myself in crushing seeds and palm fruits at her home… I always knew that I am not very good in cooking, but I even failed in crushing seeds into fine powder… Something else happened because of this delay: At Hippocamp Hotel in Brazzaville, there is a book for overlanders, where people can write down their reports about their travels and share their experiences on the way. A lot of people raved about Michel in Okoyo, who happily helps out travellers passing through, even providing them with an AC room in his own house, nice food and all other amenities. He is the big boss for the road construction project between Oyo and the border to Gabon, and for sure, as it was on my way anyway, I wanted to visit this hospitable french guy in Okoyo. It turned out, that Tayssir knows Michel! He gave him a call and so we found out, that the following day, Michel would travel by jeep from Brazzaville via Oyo to Okoyo! I took that as a great sign of destiny and got ready for a lift for the following day! The road to Okoyo is under construction, and therefore still a bad road. This part, I was about to travel by truck.