Saturday, January 30, 2010

DRC - Africa extreme...

Kinshasa
Democratic Republic Congo DRC is so gigantic that it is quite difficult to win a more or less
reasonable impression in a few weeks. Many areas are not really good to visit since for many years as there are quite a few civil wars, especially in the eastern areas Ituri and Kivu, which are the formerly tourist areas with all the mountains and the mountain gorillas. So, on my trip I visited only one very small part of DRC, and all that on the western, "safe" side. The capital of Kinshasa is currently a gigantic building site with a lot of dust, too many people, too many cars and smog. Also really hot. Of course also not safe, when it comes to criminal activity, raids and extortion by corrupt officials, policemen and soldiers. It is easy to realize all this as a tourist. Our hotel was in the centre, it was relatively clean and secured by day guards and night watchmen.


King Leopold from Gelgium
There is not so much to see in Kinshasa. We organized our visa for Republic of Congo RC, visited the arts market, where there are great masks and other tourist stuff and were often in Lebanese restaurants. The ethnographic museum with all old masks, music instruments and statues of king Leopold and Stanley is one of the most interesting sights. In Kinshasa, we had to pay attention with taking photos. Though supposedly the old system was abolished that one needs a written confirmation to be allowed to take photos, but not all policeman or soldiers do know about his new policy. In whole DRC there are incredibly lots of uniformed people, who are paid extremely badly and take every chance to improve their low salary by a "donation", a so-called "motivation" or a present called a "cadeau". The first time we encountered this, was right at the border, when the international vaccination pass is controlled – people with the right document give only a small motivation, those with only a written confirmation but not the correct pass give a donation, those without everything pay a lot…. And things like these happened each day.

Bus to Kikwit
After 4 days in Kinshasa we had organized all important things and we were ready for the journey to Kikwit. Quite a few people may ask now: Kikwit – where is that and what is there so important to see that one travels 525 kilometers? According to our guide book Kikwit is only known for a disastrous Ebola outbreak 1995, which caused nearly 200 deaths.The only other thing, the guide book speaks about, are a few waterfalls further away.
Road to Kikwit
Neither Ebola nor the waterfalls were the reason for our trip there, but we had an invitation of Vincent and Celine Uluma to visit them in Kikwit. Vincent has worked one year ago in Guenzburg, the town I grew up, as a doctor. At this time, there were some clinic materials discarded in this hospital – things for OPs, beds, cupboards, medical devices, etc. Will say, a lot of things, they do not have in DRC and were urgently looked for. So, the idea was born to send these things, nevertheless, by ship and truck to Kikwit. The transport costs were paid by Lions Club in Guenzburg. After a long journey, the objects arrived at Kikwit and are used now at several medical centers in the area. When the Lions Club Guenzburg got to know about my trip, the idea arose immediately to get me into contact with Dr. Uluma. However, I had not thought, that he invites us immediately to come to Kikwit and to stay with him and Celine, his belgian wife.
Travelling in DRC
Vincent Uluma
In Kinshasa, we found out, that in the mornings, there are coaches going to Kikwit from a bus stand near the international airport. So, we went there shortly after 7am. There were quite a few busses, all of them for Kikwit. We had more than a closer look on all the vehicles and selected the best looking bus, which already had lots of passengers. We thought, this would be the earliest departure then. It took some time to get started, gigantic loads were delivered and loaded on the roof. This was about 1 pm. Then about 2 pm our backpacks followed on the roof of the bus and shortly after we left. We knew from Vincent and Celine that it would take about 10 or 12 hours to get to Kikwit, which is about 525 kilometers from Kinshasa. So we prepared ourselves on an arrival at night. But once again everything came different than expected. At last we left Kinshasa about 4 pm, after we had spent some time in a garage and in a gas station. More or less 10 kilometers out of town we had a breakdown – a thing of an hour. 5 kilometers later was the next hold, a spare part had to be brought – well, good that we were not jet far from Kinshasa. After the part was delivered and was inserted, we went on in the darkness. There we still thought, okay, for Vincent and Celine it is better if we arrive early in the morning as in the middle of the night….. In the morning around 5am, the bus broke down completely – right in the middle of the worst part of the road. At that time, we did not even cover half of the distance to Kikwit. Most passengers prepared themselves for being stuck for several days in the bush, waiting for another spare part and a mechanic to arrive from Kinshasa or Kikwit. Those with money (not many) looked for some other transport. Therefore, we walked with full luggage to the next village. There was a coach, which was just about finished with its repair. This coach was laying here already for 5 days (not really a proof for a good vehicle), but now it was repaired, and so hopefully in better condition than before and hopefully also better than our first coach. There was also not much choice anyway. We had to pay half a fare per person again and continued our trip.

Landscape around Kikwit
Transport of goods
After other 8-hour journey we arrived in Kikwit after a total of 27 hours. Blond hair is something not seen often in Africa, so the immigration officer in Kikwit found us immediately in the coach and started asking disagreeable questions. Of course, the aim was a gift, a bribe or whatever. But short after our arrival, Celine arrived and got out us there! Mrs. Uluma is already well known in Kikwit, and immediately the haunting was over! We had a great time in Kikwit with Vincent and Celine. We learned a lot about DRC, its history, geography, the people and politics. And of course its great nature, this country is blessed with. When, finally, the country will stop its wars, people could live very well here in the countryside. Of course, the streets need an improvement, also transport. Poverty is big in this country, people are really going hungry to bed here, children are malnutrition and there are many illnesses. There is also a lack of spiritual food, if it is only a cinema. In Kinshasa there is one again, but this might also be only one in the whole country. King is, who has a television, above all at times of the Africa Cup of Nations, when one could really make some money on entrance fees!


Farmer
Lady from a village
We spent 10 days in Kikwit, a town with about 1 million people which seems, however, more like a big village. In the city centre, there are gigantic mountains of mud and sand. With every rain, the mud mountains on the streets grow. The trees, which held on the earth earlier, were cut down and illegal huts were built instead. Since then more and more mud slides in the streets of the town. In Kikwit there is 6 times per week electricity – three times in the mornings for 3 hours, three times in the evening for 3 hours… Richer households and also some of the medical centers (however,
not all) have a generator. Of course, we visited with Vincent many of the medical centers, in which now equipment from Guenzburg is used. Over and over again I also bumped into aluminum boxes of Munk technology in Guenzburg. Everything what was delivered is in use and makes the life of many people here a lot easier! Thanks to those in the clinic and Lions Club Guenzburg, who made this possible. I do not want to know at all, how the situation would be like without all that…. Several times, we went with Vincent in the bush, visited the farm, which is supposed to produce fresh meat for the clinic in the future, we looked after a patient, who lives 120 kilometers away and went to a meeting in the biggest hospital of the area. To see this big hospital with a sister took us 3 hours! One day we could combine the visit of a patient with the visit of the waterfalls of Kakobola. These waterfalls are really gigantic and for sure are rarely visited by tourists.
After 10 days it was difficult to say goodbye to Vincent and Celine. At this point, I would like to thank you so much for your hospitality and patience with our questions. We had a great time in Kikwit and I hope very much that we soon meet again in Europe!