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Well, I was really skeptical whether I would like Zanzibar or not. I
think it is wonderful. For sure, it is quite touristy with all the
things coming with it like fake guides, underemployed taxi drivers,
impertinent suitcase porters, irritating shop owners and children who
are accustomed to candy distributing tourists. Apart from that, it is
simply great to walk around in the old small lanes, to get lost there,
to land in a point which one knows again and so slowly discover the old
town. As there was Ramadan (the fasting month of the Muslims), many
stores were closed during daytime, and unfortunately, also many of the
restaurants and cafes. This affects for sure also tourists, who are
mostly not Muslim. However, it also has quite some advantages. According
to the locals it was rather quiet at that time in Stonetown, because
many tourists avoid the time of Ramadan. I would not necessarily want to
know how busy Zanzibaris, if there is even more tourists than now…. On
the whole trip I did not see as many (package) tourists as here. Another
thing is that locals have to be very economical with her energy in
Ramadan. So tourists can stroll through the old town without getting too
much unwanted attention.
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Stonetown |
However, there are great museums here, the houses in the old town are
mostly really nice and I live in Stonetown at a hotel which is
accommodated in one several hundred year-old house. Quite traditionally
with a so-called Pilipilibed, a gigantic bed which is very high, it has
got a frame and carvings. Super comfy!
Of course there are also great beaches in Zanzibar. In the northern
part there are very nice, almost white sandy beaches, which are nearly
not influenced by the tides, so one can swim there the whole day. For
sure, you are not here by yourself, but anyone expecting this, should
better not come to Zanzibar anyway. Here the lodgings are expensive with
starting at the budget edge with around 30 dollars for a single, but as
it is very quiet at the moment, it is very easy to get the price down
to less than half. Yes, am already very native….
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Stonetown |
Some days in the northern part of Zanzibar I spent with Paul from UK,
who lives always half a year in Tanzania, the other half in the UK. He
is living in southern Tanzania in a small village, giving people there a
lot f support and leading a project there. Especially, he is into
education, no wonder, as he used to be a teacher himself. Also, he is
into tourism, guiding once a while clients through his second home
country. However, I had a beautiful time with Paul exploring northern
Zanzibar and I really hope to met again anywhere in the world. Possibly
in Tanzania as his project sounds very interesting. Thanks a lot for
everything, Paul!
In Zanzibar I have also spent more time than initially intended,
because I wanted to experience the end of Ramadan, Eid al Fitr, and
here. The Zanzibaris are known for the fact that they celebrate
religious parties especially intensely, colorfully and loudly, and this I
did not want to miss! Well, it was definitely worth staying the extra
days.
In and around Stonetown there was on four days 2 parties in the
evening. One party was directly by the sea where there is every evening a
night market with great food. On these days after the end of the
Ramadan it was much bigger, more authentic, more colorful, a lot more
people and of course also much more interesting food. Above all of
course sea food, but also chicken, pizza, soup, fruit and this very
tasty sugarcane juice with lemon and ginger and ice cubes guaranteed
made of tap water. I have missed this sugarcane juice since my departure
from Mombasa painfully and my sugar cane seller here with the best
juice because particularly a lot of ginger and lime, was glad every
evening about my visit. No wonder, as I was one of his best customers
with at least two gigantic mugs in the evening (1 liter of juice)….
The other party was exactly on the other side of the town and was
much more of an authentic local party. Here, they had stalls with loads
of plastic toys, photo studios, plenty of food stalls and an even disco
with a DJ. This one was extremely loud. Though there was light, it was
still very dark just a few meters from the stalls, so people constantly
fell over other people sitting
on the ground consuming here their fish
kebab, soup or chicken. A unique mess, simply fantastic!
After a few other days on the beach to chill out from all these
festivities I continued travelling towards Malawi. Because there were so
many interesting things to see and to do in between Kenya and here, I
was rather delayed. So I decided to skip Mozambique on this trip and
travel directly to Malawi.