Finally, after 1 year, 7 months and 11 days it was definitely time to
leave Germany for another trip. No, not Africa this time, but India.
This is actually also nothing really new as this is the 7th time
travelling through India.
I have planned for the north, more exactly said from Delhi to Calcutta.
In parts I have been travelling here before – on my very first India
trip. At that time, 16 years ago, I had sworn that India will never ever
see me again. A perjury, undoubtedly. 11 years I stood with my opinion,
and then I was persuaded to try again – that time South India. And,
here we go – I really liked it a lot. Some more trips followed, to
central India, Kerala, then again a try with Rajasthan, which was fine
also. Then to the Himalayans, to the source of the sacred river Ganga.
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| Ghandi Smriti, Delhi |
Basically it was just logical to do now this trip from Delhi to
Calcutta again – and see, whether this part is really that bad,
especially Varanasi, which I hated 16 years back. This is something
still to find out in a couple of days.
Anyway, I left Germany, 13th of December. A layover of 9 hours in Dubai
might be bad for some people. I liked it. At least it is long enough to
go into town. They have a metro system now from the airport all the way
into town. And Dubai is definitely not a place to be bored. There are
so many things to see…
Three more hours in the plane and I was in India. To be on the safe
side I had pre-booked a hotel including transfer. And it was as I
expected – for sure no one waited outside the airport with a sign with
my name on it….
What to do? Well, I asked the next intelligent looking person for help.
He turned out to be a staff from a big, expensive hotel. There to pick
up people. Anyway, he called Ivory Palace, where they had to look for
the reservation. Great! Anyway, reservation was there, transfer not.
Great, this was a good start… Well, so my new friend put me in a taxi
and told the driver where to take me. He also told him not to charge me,
but the hotel…
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| Bahai Temple, Delhi |
Just, that this driver had no clue of the area Karol Bagh I wanted to
go to… It took us a long time, but then, with asking around 30 people in
the area, there it was – Ivory Palace hotel. Actually easy to find, as
it is painted red, but my taxi driver did not speak any English, so I
could not tell him…
Ivory Palace hotel is far from winning a beauty contest, but for Delhi
it is okay. More or less clean, impolite staff, not really working
toilets, but at least hot water! So, actually a good start for an India
trip. Welcome back to good old India. Although it is my fourth time in
Delhi, I still do not like this big city. Too many people, everywhere
dirt, the absolute chaos on the street, a quiet hotel room is the dream
of all sleepless tourists in this town. In addition to all that, you
have crazy rickshaw drivers, dishonest shop owners and travel agents,
and quite a few people, who like to send people on purpose in the wrong
direction….
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| Orchha |
But, well, I was prepared from earlier visits.
Places of interest of Delhi are widespread around town. So, there
were still quite some things left for my fourths visit. First, I headed
to India gate, which was built in memory of the fallen Indian soldiers
of the First World War. Nearby is the government quarter and the place
at which Gandhi was shot down. Now, this place houses a good museum.
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| Orchha |
Quite far outside, but absolutely worth seeing, is Bahai temple. He has
the shape of a lotus flower. Thousands of school children were at the
same place visiting the same temple. And, for sure, all of them wanted
to know, where I come from, my name, interesting things like my father’s
name and the like. Also, whether I liked India. For sure, this was not
only asked by one student and the others listened to the answer, no,
each of them asked his question and wanted to have an answer….
One day in Delhi is more than enough. So, I was really glad to escape
from the madness by a 5 hours train journey. My next destination was
Orchha – a small place with 8000 habitants – perfect! Moreover, a great
fort, a lot of temples, tombs and nice local people! This was the right
place to relax and to get used to India again. Even the hotel was just
great – with a view towards the fort directly from my bed. What else
someone would want?
After three days in Orchha I went by an extremely slow train to
Khajuraho. In winter, north India receives a lot of fog and therefor
trains must go more slowly. This also makes sense – nevertheless, at
least, unlit objects stand once again on the rails, cows, for example.
Or a put down cart…. Or someone is walking on the track…
This can take a bad end, if the train driver realizes things like that too late. Then better going slow…
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| Khajuraho |
In Khajuraho, I have been already, but this was 16 years ago. At that
time Khajuraho was a small village, there was a handful of rustic
lodgings, 2 or 3 restaurants and a small bicycle repair shop, which also
rented out bicycles. Well, today the whole thing is a little bit
different – there are lodgings of all categories from 2 euros up to
something like 300. A restaurant in the tree-house? Why not, we are in
Khajuraho. And for sure, now, one can rent bikes everywhere.
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| Khajuraho |
The great temples of Khajuraho remained the same. There are 22 of them,
and most of them with a fantastic range of erotic sculptures. Each time
you see something else… Quite artistic looking positions of couples or
even more people, an elephant looking shy towards a couple or a woman in
the wet sari….
For sure, you are not alone in such a world cultural heritage, but it
is a big complex, so it never looked like a horde of people in there.
Most famous is the western temple group, but there are also temples
outside of town. Basically, the whole area is dotted with temples. And
still, the best way to see them is by bicycle. Past green fields and by
small villages. Like that, India is just great!
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| Veeru, hotel manager in Khajuraho |
Moreover, as also my hotel was good – clean, hot showers, a terrace,
nice employees and friendly manager. What does one want more?
So, my next stop will be in another small place called Chitrakut. About this place I will tell you more in the next posting.
By the way, in case, you plan a trip to northern India in December,
do not forget to bring a good warm sleeping bag, some warm underwear,
gloves and at least two sweaters… This is not a joke, at night, it has
something like 5 degrees. But there is no heating and people sit outside...
