From Livingstone, I went by shared taxi to the border with Botswana.
The border crossing is very well organized and also crossing the border
river by ferry was unproblematic. On the other side, in Botswana, there
was no public transport, but apparently the border officials felt very
sorry for me having no car. So, they stopped the first good looking jeep
and asked the driver to take me a couple of kilometers to Thebe River
Camp in Kasane.
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| Sandra, Kasane |
This crossing is very easy, so it is hard to understand, why most
tourists in Livingstone panic for possibilities to master this border
crossing anyhow and end up in an organized safari to Chobe National Park
in Botswana. Maybe a clever business idea, rising the fears of the
backpack horde of this border and by doing so selling more safaris to
Chobe originating in Livingstone, because then the border crossing is
done by minibus in the group…
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| Sandras mum |
However, Thebe River Camp is quite big and a lot of overland trucks
stop here as well.
These are exactly the kind of the travellers, who
independent tourists usually try to avoid. Overland trucks are often
booked by young, rather inexperienced travellers. The classical route is
overland from London to Capetown, but for sure, one can do also only
part of the way. Usually, these trucks go to big camp sites or they camp
just in the bush. Mostly, they also cook together and buy food at local
markets to save money. Some more up market versions do have a cook on
board. Group dynamic plays a big part of it and wild parties are common
and often. The latter is also the reason, why individual tourists
usually try to avoid these groups.
At the bar of Thebe River Camp I got to know Kibonye and Simon from
Kasane. They are teachers in a private school; Kibonye is from Botswana
and Simon from England. We spent an interesting afternoon together and
they took me with them to town. They introduced me to Heinz from
Germany, who spends several weeks a year in Kasane. He bought a house in
Kasane some years ago, where now also Sandra, a very nice local lady,
lives.
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| Chobe National Park |
They invited me to visit Sandra’s mother in the village of Kavimba
the next day. Kavimba is a remote small village about 80 kilometers from
Kasane.
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| Chobe National Park |
The journey to the village was interesting, the area is very dry, and
most trees have barely any leaves, a few trees strange enough with lots
of green as it had rained 10 days ago. Apparently an extensive rain is
enough for some trees to grow immediately leaves. The village has about
800 inhabitants, there is nearly no work except of farming, due to the
long period without rain the habitants have to walk for 15 kilometers
for drinking water – oneway. Here, people live on subsistence economy,
above all maize which can be harvested once a year. There is an
elementary school in the village, however, for secondary education
children have to go to Kasane. For most families this is not possible,
as Kasane is far away and the children have to attend boarding school.
Therefore, usually it lacks of money.
Sandra supports her mother as far as possible. However, currently she
is without a job herself, so Heinz helps out at the moment.
The way back we drove through Chobe National Park. This park borders
Chobe River, which has water the whole year. Accordingly, many animals
are here the whole year. Chobe is known above all for the big elephant
herds, which can be easily spotted in the evening or in the late
afternoon taking a nice cool bath in the river or in the mud. Also,
there are many hippos, buffaloes and different antelopes. There are also
warthogs, giraffes, crocodiles, leopards, lions……
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| Chobe National Park |
Heinz also invited me to stay with them instead of living in Thebe
River Camp. This was great! I changed my small yellow tent for a nice
flat with sleeping couch, fridge and a bathroom completely for myself!
What an improvement! All this came even with full board – it was like
holiday from travelling and, in addition, a time in which I have seen
and experienced a lot without any organization work on my side! At this
point thanks a lot to Heinz and Sandra. I will definitely not forget my
time in Kasane!
Besides our 4 visits to the national park, we visited also various
lodges like Elephant Valley Lodge. This lodge is situated close to a big
water hole. The animals come here in the late afternoon and at night to
drink and can be watched from a view platform. This is one of these
super expensive lodges, a travel agent would love to book for a client
(prices begin with 400 or 500 dollars per night). I was quite content
with a coke and the view platform.
One afternoon, I spent on a boat on Chobe River. This was especially
interesting, because we were very close to hippos, buffaloes, crocodiles
and elephants. We were also lucky to watch two young elephants in a
violent fight.
